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Thank you for creating what I think is the single most practical and complete end-2-end video on 80/20. I can't wait to watch your other videos, particularly regarding the uppers. I'd also very much appreciate your thoughts on wall framing and to what extent you use 80/20, if any, in the walls. Please continue to add such great content.

how would these attach to extruded aluminum without having to add a whole bar (or more)?

Nice build on a short wheelbase.

Thanks for the great demo. How are the fairing on trips? I am worried that these would pop open on the right bump, have you seen that happen? I am assuming you can adjust the strength to hold up different wait of doors, have you messed around with that?

Plywood is not a great insulator for a thermal break

Great information in your videos Jeff and you are very kind to share your knowledge. With your overhead cabinets, is there a chance the rear will work loose with vibration, as it is only clamped on to the top of the rib, or do you have a trick to secure it Thanks

GREAT video Jeff. Could you share the dimensions of your microwave cabinet? . and a parts list? what kind of 1/4" ply do you use for the bottom? Love your content. thanks.

for drawer slides try "Hettich" Blum quality at half the price

So now we need trelino vs. compost video

Doug: I have a Fiama awning attached to the factory rails. It looks like this brackets would still work for me on building out a solar panel rack. I’d like to order one to size it first… then if it works, start on my solar rack project. Where did you find them? Thanks, Bob

Thanks for the detailed comparison! The eco flow looks nice, but it appears to be a poor value. We're retired FT RVers who discovered we love boondocking, so designed and built our off-grid electrical system ourselves, on a limited budget. We're living this lifestyle off of a limited retirement income so had to take the low budget route, foregoing name brand components like Victron and Battleborn for more affordable, quality options. We started by building a 620-watt liftable solar array on the side of our 1999 National Tropical MH. Our side array makes a nice bedroom window awning too, practically lifting itself with a couple gas struts, and it's easy to clean, standing safely on the ground. Next, we built a 12v, 560ah LiFePo-4 battery using 8, 280ah prismatic cells and a Heltec 330amp (1,200a surge) BMS to start our generator. This is roughly the equivalent of a pair of Battleborn Gamechangers. But unlike the Gamechangers, these cells fit perfectly under the steps of our MH where our old pair of golf cart batteries used to reside. Our 12v system uses an 80A Lithium converter/charger, a 1,000w Renogy inverter, a 50a Epever MPPT charge controller and a Lnex battery monitor. We have a Renogy DC-DC charger so we can use our alternator for charging, but truthfully, we have so much solar that we never even turn it on, (nor do we use our converter/charger anymore) - though I can see where one might come in handy in a van with limited solar. All this cost us around $3,500 and meets all our off-grid electrical needs except for air conditioning, and microwave. By mounting the solar array on the side of our coach, we left the roof free to rack 8, 550w solar panels down the length of our 35ft Class A, 15" off the roof, above our AC, vents, etc. It shades our entire roof, allowing plenty of cooling air underneath, increasing solar output and reducing the heat load on the air conditioners. Our 4,400w array can run both our A/Cs, our household appliances and charge our batteries from solar at the same time. When the sun goes down, we're always at 100% battery capacity, even in winter. We can even run our mini split heat pump 24/7 providing both A/C and heat powered by the sun. We use a Sungold Power all-in-one 48V, 5,000W PSW Inverter/100A charge controller/battery charger that saves us space as well as money compared to a system built with individual components. This all-in-one unit has the same 99% charging and 95% inverter efficiency as the high end Victron unit, though it lacks some of the bells and whistles to come in at only $764. We chose this particular unit because it supports up to 500 volts of solar power which was needed to accommodate our 400voc solar array and it is from an established manufacturer offering lifetime customer support from their US facility and a decent warranty. Our 48v battery uses 16, 320ah prismatic cells and a 200amp BMS (the equivalent wattage of an 800amp 12v BMS) to keep it safe. Together with our 560ah 12v bank, we have a total of 23.5 kwh of batteries onboard - kept charged by 5,020 watts of solar. For comparison, this is roughly the equivalent of 18, 100ah Battleborn batteries. The price of Lithium prismatic cells has dropped quite a bit over the last few years. Our first 7.1kwh battery cost us $1,569 or $221/kwh, however the 16.4kwh we bought last November only cost $1,726 or $105/kwh. Of course, you'll need to add a $100-$150 BMS to keep things safe. We removed our old rooftop bedroom A/C and replaced it with an EG4 28.5 seer-2, 12k btu mini-split heat pump on the upper rear of our motorhome. It's super quiet and cools as well as our 14.5k btu soft start equipped Furrion we have up front. It only draws about 1/3rd the power and heats efficiently too, reducing our propane usage. We have no need to hook-up to power pedestals or run our generator anymore, as we can now run everything in our MH strictly off the sun, including A/C and heat from our heat pump 24/7 if needed. By mounting the solar array on the side of our coach, we left the roof free to rack 8, 550w solar panels down the length of our 35ft Class A, 15" off the roof, above our AC, vents, etc. It shades our entire roof, allowing plenty of cooling air underneath, increasing solar output and reducing the heat load on the air conditioners. Our 4,400w array can run both our A/Cs, our household appliances and charge our batteries from solar at the same time, even in winter. We mounted a Sungold Power all-in-one 48V, 5,000W Inverter/100A charge controller/battery charger, breakers and another Lnex battery monitor on the wall in our bedroom, saving us space as well as money compared to a system built with individual components. Together with our redundant 560ah 12v bank, we have a total of 23.5 kwh of batteries onboard, kept charged by 5,020 watts of solar. We removed our old rooftop bedroom A/C and replaced it with an EG4 28.5 seer-2, 12k btu mini-split heat pump on the upper rear of our motorhome. It's super quiet and cools as well as our 14.5k btu soft start equipped Furrion we have up front, but only draws about 1/3rd the power. Our total budget for both 12v and 48v systems was around $11,500, including the $1,500 high-efficiency heat pump. We have no need to hook-up to power pedestals or run our generator anymore, as we run everything in our MH strictly off the sun

how do you attach the brass check valve to the end of the hose and install it thru the uniseal. I am perplexed, as i have used the uniseal and the larger brass check valve will not push thru the seal. What technique are you using? thanks David from Louisiana

The Trelino comes in three sizes: small, medium and large. Which size Trelino are you demonstrating?

thank you for the video, i am going to 24v system as well, regarding the two orion dc to dc changer, what size wires did you use or you would recommend from the van battery to the orion?

I like the trelino as a diverter toilet but not at $400! I have an analog five gallon bucket and a $10 camping toilet seat from walmart. I use bags, don't pee in it and cover #2 with a scoop of wood ash after each use. Odor is minimal and I change bags as needed. If there is odor it is a sign it needs emptying. lol It did not take long to get over any reservations about using it. Might not work as well for the females

Congratulations on your new shop!

Great build guys! I have one suggestion for the Grey water line dump. I heard a ball valve was used, however I would recommend a guillotine style one. Ball valve type dumps will tend to get gunked up over time and dirty and the ball will get stuck. This is minimized with a guillotine style one, similar to the standard RV valves.

You guys do terrific work. Would love to see the battery cables concealed and cleaner. Looks too busy

Real test would be in direct scorching sunlight midday. My treeligo mini split ac barely gets temps down to 26C when outside is 34-36C direct sunlight. Van is metal so gets really hot and AC struggles. Full blast 60amps draw with solar doing a lot of work of course.

Well done guys, you all do really nice work and inspire us to make the extra effort.

Would you take $20k?

Lookin' good!!!!

I have watched hundreds of van plumbing videos. This was really well done and informative. Had a few new take aways from this one.

As someone whos done alot of pex. Stop treating it like copper. You are paying for alot of elbows for no reason, pex is sized smaller because it used less fittings. Let it curve naturally. Outside of that i like it.

where is the new shop located? thanks

Wow! $800 for that toilet! Highway robbery. It’s not expensive to make so someone is making bank here…

It seems like it would just make sense for a man to buy a portable urinal for around 10 bucks. Especially if you’re not doing bowel movements in the van.

Thanks for your help, a really useful video my friend. God bless you all and all you do

Thanks for the great video

Thanks for the video - however you missed a very important point which make the Eco Flow lithium systems far superior to Battle born and others. It has to do with the fact the Eco Flow lithium batteries are 51 volts rather than 12 volts. This means they operate using 75 less amperage for the same load verses 12 volts. Less amperage means less heat and losses and higher discharge and charging abilities. In addition, the Eco Flow inverter, up and down converters all operate cooler thanks to low amperage. If you would like more information on 51 volt systems look over my non sponsored 51 volt dual voltage dual Inverter RV system Thanks Mike 5112 dual Voltage Lithium System ruclips.net/video/ZxSS44przNs/видео.html

I really like the Trelino and am thinking of getting one

What size abs plastic sheets do you buy for the upper cabinets?

No specific details

Congrats on the new shop!

Thank you! Very informative.

Great video, Jeff, hey where do you buy your ABS panels and what sizes do you buy?

Hi Jeff, as always very educative video. Thank you! In the heated floor shown in minute 27:45 did you put the xps foam directly on van metal floor or did you frame it. What size of pex was used 1/2” or 3/8” thank you so much.

I had Jeff and his boys build the plumbing system in my Ford Transit. They are super easy to work with, they are super accommodating, they did a fantastic job and they stand behind their work. If I hadn’t already bought my electrical system I would have had them do that as well. They don’t do things Willy Nilly, they have taken the time to get educated on what they do. I highly recommend these guys if you need anything done on your van. Your new shop looks great Jeff, glad you have a bigger space and are closer if I need anything else 😊.

Hey Jeff - Apologies if I missed it in this video or in the others that you've published, but what size fasteners do you use on the extruded aluminum? Is it a 1/4 20 or 6 mm? Thanks!

Congrats on the new shop, it looks sick. Excited to see how it looks once it's all optimized. Cheers!

Where do you buy the white ABS plastics?

Your videos are fantastic. You dont need music. Its a little irritating in instructional videos. Love your channel.

Congratulations on the new shop! Great idea to put a sortainer on your dust extractor.

Congratulations on your new facility and expanded offerings! It’s exciting to see your business thriving! Best wishes.

Most excellent build! When, in the build process, was the ceramic coating applied?

Thanks for all these detailed videos! Q: What do you use to keep the wheelwell cabinets parallel to the center line of the van (brackets or rubber spacers)? I assume the back end of cabinets would be an inch or two off the wall to keep the centerline even. Or are you building the 80/20 a bit wider towards the back of the van? Looking to build our own van shortly!

Always amazing videos, thank you for taking the time to help out folks. Quick question. Why battleborn batteries versus victron batteries? I'm tooling up to start my 24 volt system in my Sprinter.

I have a Thetford cassette in my van. Never smells, easy to empty. Never leaks.

I don't see an accumulator tank in the video. Do you have accumulator tanks to prevent the pump from pulsating on/off in your systems?

if you want the square one it's cheaper to use a bucket with a toilet ring